When to Come: A Short Guide to the Seasons

The first thing to know is that the monsoon is not a single event but a season, and it shapes the calendar more than any other factor. From late June through September, the hills are green, the trails are quiet, and the views are often hidden behind cloud.

October and November are the classic months. The monsoon has cleared, the air is sharp, and the mountains stand out against a blue so deep it almost looks printed. The trails are busy, and the lodges fill — book early, and accept the company.

March and April are the second window. The rhododendrons are in flower on the lower trails, the days lengthen, and the air is a little softer than in autumn. A fine choice for the Annapurnas and for treks that do not go too high too early.

The winter months — December through February — are cold and clear, and the high passes close. But the lower routes, the cultural trips, and the wildlife of Chitwan are at their best, and the crowds are thin. We are happy to build a winter itinerary; it is one of our favourite times.